Rhum Agricole and Clairin

Where it started

Martinique's agricole was born of a sugar crisis. Between 1884 and 1896 overproduction closed the least competitive sugar estates, and several turned to making rum exclusively from cane juice.² In the last decade of the nineteenth century Martinique was the world's leading rum producer, at more than 220,000 hectoliters.² Martinique agricole won medals at the 1855 Universal Exposition; a syndicate formed in 1895 issued certificates of origin to fight fraud, a second in 1935 added tasting-panel quality control, and a 1963 decree reserved the word "vieux" for rhum aged at least three years in oak.² The appellation was first recognized by decree on November 5, 1996,² and INAO calls Rhum de la Martinique the only rum in the world with an appellation d'origine contrôlée.¹

Where and how it's made

The rules start in the field. Cane may be cut only between January 1 and August 31, and its juice must reach at least 14° Brix and a pH of at least 4.7.² Juice is fermented in open vats of no more than 500 hectoliters for no more than 120 hours, and adding sugar, syrup or molasses is forbidden.² Distillation is in a continuous Creole column with a copper concentration section of five to nine plates, and the day's rhum must come off between 65 and 75 percent alcohol.²¹ At sale it is at least 40 percent.²

The AOC has three categories. Blanc rests at least six weeks in vats with no wood color; élevé sous bois spends at least 12 months in oak; vieux is aged at least three years in oak casks under 650 liters and bottled in Martinique.²¹ A vintage vieux needs six years.² The word "agricole" must appear on the label.² EU law reserves the term "agricultural" for rum from a French overseas department or Madeira.³

Clairin is Haiti's cane spirit. La Maison & Velier, which exports it, says there are over 500 small distilleries, or guildives, in the countryside, and defines Clairin Traditionnel by heritage non-hybrid cane, chemical-free farming, spontaneous wild-yeast fermentation and batch-still distillation.⁴ Its Spirit of Haiti project was founded in 2012.⁴

How to taste it

Try a blanc neat at room temperature, then in a Ti' Punch with lime and cane syrup. INAO describes the blanc by fruity, floral and vegetal, tea-like notes and the absence of any burnt-sugar aroma;¹ a vieux adds wood, spice and dried fruit. Clairin is often bottled at high strength, so add water. Pairings: accras de morue, grilled fish with sauce chien, coconut sorbet.

Styles and what the label means

• Blanc — unaged agricole, at least six weeks' rest in vats.²
• Élevé sous bois — at least 12 months in oak.¹
• Vieux / VO — at least three years in oak.²
• VSOP, Réserve Spéciale, Très Vieux — at least four years.²
• XO, Hors d'Âge, Extra Vieux, Grande Réserve — at least six years.²
• Clairin Vieux — clairin aged at least three years, per its exporter.⁴