Sherry

Where it started

Fortifying sherry began centuries ago to protect wine shipped to distant markets.¹ Phylloxera reached Jerez in 1894, and vines were replanted on American rootstock.² In 2000 the Consejo Regulador created certified-age categories, V.O.S. for over 20 years and V.O.R.S. for over 30.³

Where and how it's made

Jerez sits at latitude 36° North with 3,000 to 3,200 hours of sun a year.² The best vineyards are on albariza, a white limestone soil that stores winter rain.² The classic grapes are Palomino, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel, all white.² Since rule changes published in October 2022, six pre-phylloxera varieties are allowed too: Beba, Cañocazo, Mantúo Castellano, Mantúo de Pilas, Perruno and Vigiriega.¹¹

After a dry fermentation, wines for fino and manzanilla are fortified to 15 percent so flor can grow; wines for oloroso go to at least 17, where flor cannot live.¹ The Consejo has approved making fortification optional for wines that reach those strengths naturally, but said in 2022 that the change still needed EU approval.¹¹ Ageing lasts at least two years and usually runs through the criaderas y soleras system in 600-litre American oak butts.⁴ For every litre sold, three must stay in stock.³

How to taste it

Fino and manzanilla at 6 to 8°C; amontillado and oloroso at 12 to 14°C.⁶⁷ Flor after seven or eight years weakens, so very old sherries are oxidative styles.³ Pairings: fino with olives and jamón, oloroso with stews, PX over vanilla ice cream.

Styles and what the label means

• Manzanilla — flor-aged, only in Sanlúcar de Barrameda.⁵
• Fino — flor-aged in Jerez or El Puerto, at least two years.⁶
• Amontillado — flor first, then oxidation.⁷
• Oloroso — fortified to 17, oxidative only.⁸
• Palo Cortado — amontillado nose, oloroso body.⁹
• Cream — oloroso sweetened with Pedro Ximénez.¹⁰
• Pedro Ximénez — from sun-dried grapes, syrupy.¹²